Mark Twain State Park and Hannibal MO

       

Since so much of our visit to Mark Twain State Park involved taking care of the car here are pictures with captions of what else we did there

On the way to the campground we crossed vast areas of nothing but fields.  The roads through them were unpaved and seeing a car speeding along with its dust trail was not unusual.

We crossed the bridge over Mark Twain Lake on Rte 107 on the way to the campground

Our first night's sunset.  Although they were pretty all the other evenings, this day's was particularly so.  The day had been hot and there was some haze in the sky which caught the sun's rays.

The buzzards were all over and frequently overhead but would gather in the late afternoon in anticipation of scraps left from fishermen who'd cleaned their catch right next to our campsite.  They are not particularly pretty birds but they looked fantastic as the sun shined through their wing feathers.

We took a walk and the colors of the trees against the deep blue of the sky was gorgeous

As was the path that was lined and covered with trees.  The sun was high in the sky and we felt like we were in a light show

We walked down to the lake and marveled at the cliffs and colors

We saw no deer while we were in the campsite but as we left the campground on our way to Hannibal there were 2 young ones grazing at the entrance.  They seemed non-plussed to see humans and a car and only leapt into the woods as we got alongside them.

Entering Hannibal from the river-which we didn't-we drove in and it was less scenic

Buildings on Main St in Hannbal

We try to sample local fare wherever we go and though mostly meat we've enjoyed most of it. This is called a Maid-Rite and it's a loose ground beef burger, somewhat like a Sloppy Joe without the sauce.  It's messy to eat but tasted good.

After lunch we visited the very interesting Mark Twain Museum Gallery.  It covered his adult life and had a number of interesting displays about his many careers and a wonderful exhibit of the Norman Rockwell artist's proofs and oil paintings of the illustrations he did for The Adventures of Tom Sawyer.  Sadly, because we did not want to keep Wayne's car too long we did not have time to see all the houses and the Mark Twain boyhood home.  

The Mississippi River from Hannibal MO

Riverboat Mark Twain

Before we left Florida (MO) and the Mark Twain State Park we visited the Historic Site.  Within the building is the cabin in which Samuel Clemens, AKA Mark Twain, was born.  Another instructive and interesting museum, we not only saw personal belongings of the family's but furniture from MT's New York City apartment and a collection of other memorabilia.  I remarked on the number of Mark Twain Museums (there is at least one other in Hartford, CT where he and his family lived for many years) and it's rather a good thing that everything is not amassed in one HUGE place but in a number of locations and as many people as possible can learn about him.  Then again, I have a personal affinity for the guy...his quotes are often ones I agree with.

How not to tow a car...getting from IA to MO, badly

So, it was Sunday morning, October 11 and although the long weekend technically had another day I'd scheduled us to drive to a park near Hannibal, MO, home of Mark Twain so we'd be there on Monday to be able to get more time in visiting town for 3 days.

We left at our normal mid-morning time after the normal routine:  hooked the car up, installed the brake system and started to pull out.  The MoHo "bucked" so we stopped and I looked in the car window to see if I'd left the brake on.  Nope, it was off.  We started again and more bucking but Don said it was probably related to the recent alignment and the fact that we'd been sitting for a few days and I went with that.  At the next stop sign the MoHo bucked again but only a little bit and then it did it again when we stopped for gas.  But, it didn't happen again so then we thought perhaps it was related to the gas.  We stopped along the route and left the motor running while we ate a quick lunch, because turning it off involves turning off the car and then restarting the brake system.  

We made good time to the Mark Twain State Park campground in Florida, MO although, as is the case with all these state parks, the directions were to the office and NOT the campground so we had to maneuver a bit to get to the campground.  The park surrounds Mark Twain Lake which with rugged bleached cliffs beautifully highlighted by fall colors, as we drove across both the north and south sections.  We then found the campground and did our normal routine of unhitching the car and filling with water.  I then drove the MoHo to our site and Don was to follow in the car.  

When we'd arrived, the check in booth was closed but the main campground host was right there and told us he thought we might not fit in the spot we'd reserved.  I drove up to our site and waited for Don...and waited...and waited.  Now, my husband is a friendly guy and I thought perhaps he'd just gotten involved talking to the host so I backed into the spot and found I agreed with the host.  We fit, but not well and the site was not at all level. I figured I'd go ask if we could pick another site since there were quite a few empty ones. 

Don still hadn't appeared so I drove back to the entrance.  He was there with the host and a ranger. "The car won't start. And it's not the battery."  Ugh.  He had started it, driven about 50 feet and it stalled.  Completely.  It turned over and the battery sounded strong (and with a new starter we knew it wasn't that) but there was no starting it.  Time to call USAA (our car insurance company.)  Phone reception at the entrance was better than up at the site so I called from there.  Since it was 5pm Sunday  we knew it wasn't a good idea to call a tow truck since all the car places would be closed but WHERE were we even going to tow?  USAA told us we'd be covered for a tow but Hannibal, a not small but also not huge town, was 40 minutes away. The question was not getting the car to a mechanic but being so far away.  The ranger then told us he would go get a list of car mechanics closer by and we could call the tow in the morning.  Of course, FIRST we'd have to find out if they were going to be opened or closed.  

The camp host told us we could leave the car where it was as the campground was not busy and it was out of the way.  The bikes and kayaks were still on it and he said they'd be safe so we left them there for the night.  I left Don there talking to the host and went to find a spot.  After backing into 2, neither of which were level, I found a nice spacious and level one and parked.  The host for the campground we were in (there are 3 there) came by and was very nice about our changing the site and we talked for awhile about the car.  When Don came up later we leveled the MoHo and set up and then the host, Wayne, came by to tell us that regrettably we'd parked in a "family" spot which is actually 2 sites and a premium price: $12 more a night.  At that point we were too tired and worried to care so we said fine.  The ranger then drove up with a list of car mechanics on a sheet of paper and wished us luck, saying he'd do what he could to help.  At that point there was nothing else we could do.  Wayne said we could "settle up" in the morning so it was time to relax.

It was beautiful there.  It faced the lake, the sunset was looking beautiful and I ran down through the trees to the lakeshore to capture it.   It was time to appreciate what was a beautiful spot on a beautiful day.  It had been in the low 80s/ mid 20C all day and now the evening breezes made it like a beautiful summer's eve.  After running back and forth to get the sunset pictures and cook dinner, we sat with our plates outside and hypothesized about what could be wrong with the car.

YEA! I called the first place on the sheet from the ranger the next morning and he told me that he would be open.  Don unloaded the bikes and the kayaks and hauled each kayak up behind his bike (they are on trolleys) and then we rode our bikes up.  The tow truck came, loaded up the car and off he drove.  The mechanic told us he'd call later.  Then we decided to ride our bikes around to see if there was a cheaper spot that was level.  After looking at several we came up with 2 alternatives.  Wayne said since we'd only been in the other for the night and with all trouble they were not going to charge us and we could book this spot as if we'd been there the whole time.  Phwew.  He also offered to lend us his car to drive to Hannibal if we wanted to!

Now, as hard as it is to believe that someone we'd met less than 24 hours before was willing to lend us his car, it is not as much of a surprise when you've been RVing for awhile.  RVers get a bad rap in many places.  I know there is the attitude that we are a step removed from "trailer trash" and many people think we're environmental hazards.  Neither could be further from the truth. Environmentally, sure our rigs guzzle gas BUT we tend to drive and then park for days or weeks at a times.  We have a 78 gallon fresh water tank that takes us a week to 10 days to use, although admittedly we each take 5 minute showers 3-4 times week in the campground showers.  In our case, we have a composting toilet so we produce no "black water" and when we can, we run off solar power (safely now.)  We tend to stay in state parks where we find that many "locals" come for the weekend-bringing their families to enjoy the outdoors.  As far as who we are-everyone from retirees to young couples with newborns.  People who have pop up trailers they use for the occasional weekend off to those of us who live full time in anything from a modest rig to the most luxurious 42 (and over) foot class A's.  What we have found is that across the board RVers will help you when you need it, are friendly, do not care what your politics are, or how fancy your rig is.  They are interested in what you've seen and where you've been and, if local, what you think of their town/state.  They are, as a group and individually some of the nicest people either of us have ever met and we feel like we've made many new friends in just 6 months on the road. Now, don't get me wrong, it was INCREDIBLY generous of Wayne to offer his car but after 6 months on the road, I have to admit I was not shocked.

So, Monday after saying goodbye to the car and spending the morning washing the rig inside and out, including the roof, and moving into our new spot I called the mechanic.  He had not had a chance to look at the car but would call us in the morning.

Tuesday at midday we heard from the mechanic.  Inexplicably (he still need to figure out why) the spark plugs were "gunked up" and drenched in gasoline.  For those who are not familiar with the way a car engine works...spark plugs should NOT be drenched with gas.  He promised to call later.  And call he did.  The ignition module was bad he said and should he order a new one?  He could have it by Thursday and have our car to us by Friday he thought.  We said yes.

On Wednesday we decided to take Wayne up on his generous offer and drive into Hannibal to do some sightseeing.  First we needed to drive in the opposite direction to Monroe City, where the car was, to pick up some of Phoenix's things we'd left in the car and check in with the mechanic.  Both Travis and Charles were working on the car when we arrived and said they wanted to make sure there was nothing else that needed to be done.  We left for Hannibal.

It was time for lunch when we arrived so we ducked into a restaurant and ordered a local plate-a Maid-Rite sandwich which is basically a sloppy joe without the sauce -a loose hamburger sandwich if you will.  It -they! we each got 2!- was filling and we left feeling stuffed.  The Mark Twain Boyhood Home and Museum was right down the street so we wandered through it for close to an hour and then walked around town and down to the river.  There we stopped to talk with a guy who's been full timing for 14 years and rarely stays anywhere he has to pay.  It sounded attractive (thinking as we were of our looming car repair bill) but a bit TOO peripatetic for us.  We like staying in state parks and look forward to be where there are federal lands that are free or half price but a new parking lot each night for weeks on end is too much.  We drove back "home" to get the car back to Wayne but on the way received a phone call from Travis.  They'd found another "problem."  The intake manifold had had a fire and a valve had completely melted.  This part he could also order BUT it was going to be expensive.  Knowing full well that a car does not run without its "lungs" we knew it had to be ordered.  I could hear the kaching kaching ringing in my head and STILL we didn't know what had caused this.  Was my car, that is 11 years old but has been treated well and still low mileage, suddenly dying? He thought he could have it done by Friday afternoon...

So, Thursday and Friday we hung out, hiking and biking and I decided to do laundry.  The hike we took was beautiful with the colors of fall all around us.  Our site was also right next to the fish cleaning station.  There was a boat ramp into the lake used by fishermen who then clean their fish there.  Every afternoon with the sun low in the sky we would see dozens of buzzards circling the parking lot. Sun reflecting on their wings they looked beautiful. No surprise that the picnic area just down the road from the campground is called Buzzard's Roost.  Cadbury would watch them warily but they were interested in fish and paid him no mind staying high in the sky.

On Friday, Wayne's wife, Gayle, who'd been visiting her daughter in Calgary, returned to the campground, and we spent time talking to them and then got a call from Travis saying the car was ready and we could pick it up.  Wayne offered his car again so we drove over to get it.  Travis did not sound 100% convinced that it was running perfectly and then told us that the gears sounded awful when shifting into reverse which hardly worked and THAT was when I had my eureka (and stomach crashing) moment.  When we had hitched the tow set up in Davenport the tow bars-both of which need to lock before towing-were not locking.  I took the brake system back out and reversed the car and then set the brakes back up.  That was when I must have forgotten to put it in neutral. When I checked to see if the brake was off I hadn't even thought of the gears because I "always" put them into neutral first.  We paid the bill and discussed the idea of taking the car to have "the gears looked at" once we got to St Louis and headed back to the park.  Halfway there the car was rolling along but I was getting NO gas.  I called Travis and he said he was afraid maybe the VTEC solenoid was bad.  He suggested I turn it off and restart.  I did...6 more times in 5 miles.  I could pop the clutch and get some gas or that, but clearly the car was in trouble.  I could not blame Travis as he had only been able to drive the car after the other things had been put in, he knew we wanted to get going and he knew we'd need a bigger place to address what was wrong...In the next post I'll tell you what we did.

Davenport, IA

We left Dubuque mid morning of Oct 8 for West Lake County Park outside Davenport.  And I got to drive! Finally.  Don has been so happy with the way the MoHo drives since we had the wheels aligned that he wanted me to experience it and I was all too willing to do so.  The drive was easy, still rolling hills, cornfields and windmills with farms scattered around on each side.  We followed the road near the river but in that area it is not really close so we didn't see much.  We did not go into Davenport but just west to a lovely county park.  The weather was typical fall-crisp and cool, our site was easy to find and we set up in no time and relaxed. And Don went for a bike ride.

Next day, you guessed it-I went to do laundry and groceries and was happy to see that not only was the grocery store right across the street from the laundromat AND there was a cheap gas station on the way back to the park, but there was a Goodwill and I had a pile of books and some other stuff we'd gathered.  Laundry done, groceries bought, donations made and car filled with gas ($2.19/gal) and my work was done.  I did a short bike ride and then got to some paperwork that I needed to do while Don...rode his bike.

The next day we went to Davenport.  We'd seen an article saying the Welcome Center was worth visiting and since it's housed in the old train station it was easy to find.  We gathered some maps and flyers and then went outside to the Farmer's Market which was next door.  I was disappointed because I had bought vegetables at the store the day before but we found some Delicata squash and some bison steaks and bison Bratwurst that we decided to try.  We had brick oven pizza for lunch while sitting in the shade which was a touch too cool so that lead to a walk along the river in the brilliant sun.  The Farmer's Market was quite different from the ones I am used to in the east because there were all sorts of booths besides the produce and hand made items, there were tens of food booths.  There was a real mix of people too, something I do not really notice in the east.  I spent some time bonding with the wife of the farmer who sold me the squash since my eye was quite black and blue from my run in with the wall and she'd had a pole land on hers while they were breaking down last week.

The old Union (train) Station, it's now the Welcome Center

Of the many food booths this was the most creative.  However, we did not partake.  We limited ourselves to a woodfired pizza

Fall Produce...gourds

Cauliflower (my favorite, and Phoenix's)

apples

Squash-the delicata is on the far left.  Delicious tossed with olive oil, salt and pepper you can eat the skin too.

The bridge to Rock Island crosses the Mississippi along the riverwalk. The stage was ornate and somewhat Eastern in design.

Looking toward the city from the riverwalk

The Figge and the Sky Bridge

It was time to return Phoenix to the car and for us to go see the Figge Art Museum.  WHAT a treat!  The exhibit of blown glass corn cobs was leaving the next day so I was thrilled to not miss it.  Then we looked at the art work of Ellen Wagener's Horizon lines.  Her colors and lines were lovely and I liked each one better than the next.  The next exhibit was the Photography of Edward S Curtis-or 100 of his photos.  In 1900 Curtis started a project to photograph Native American peoples all over the states.  The photos, most of us have seen the most famous, are exquisite.  Not only is the quality incredible but he captures the essence of each of his subjects.  Not content with only 100 I found a book with many more and sat happily ensconced as Don continued looking.  From there we looked at the main collections and the small-ish exhibit of cowboys bronzes but I was as impressed with the space and the lighting in the museum as thrilled with the collections.  In addition, the museum was celebrating el Dia de los Muertos/The Day of the Dead and the opening reception had been the night before.  Throughout the museum were papier mache dead people fully dressed and posed.  Of course the festival itself is a commemoration of the dead.

The Figge

Horse sculpture from driftwood and Dia de los Muertos papier mache figure

Corn installation-all blown glass.  Each stalk was about 3-4 feet/ 1 meter long

The space in the museum was as beautiful as the artwork on display.  This is a staircase with another Dia de los Muertos figure

A Sound Sculpture by Bertoia-the rods are long and when stroked with one's finger begin to move and hit each other.  The sound is like wind chimes.  Beautiful.

This is on the 3rd floor leading back out into the hallway

Wagener's F-5 Tornado series of paintings

The cutest couple we saw all day.

Figge complete we walked around until I found the Chocolate Parlor where I was able to get a few pieces to satisfy my chocolate craving and then return to the campground.  

The park was very quiet, though busy for the weekend but our spot was across from the tent campers so we felt quite private.  The bike trail into the adjoining section was a nice ride and I got out a few times though not for long.  Don continued to go for nice long rides though.  It was going to be a long drive to the Mark Twain State Park outside Hannibal the next day so we got the coach ready and hung out for the evening.

The US Coast Guard Academy, my awesome niece and President Obama...and family May 20 2015

UPDATE as of Feb 2018-Sara married her best friend and AWESOME husband, Kyle, in Aug 2018 and they are now posted in New Orleans for the next 2 years.  We visited them over Mardi Gras.  She spent 2 years as an Ensign and  boarding officer on the USS Legare out of Norfolk after school and moved to New Orleans next. We continue to be so proud of both of them.

When we left the Hudson Valley, we were headed toward New London for our niece's graduation but first we wanted to stop and visit friends in Darien and Westport, CT. Well, anyone who knows these towns will not be surprised that I was afraid we would be unable to park on the street in either of them and knew both friends' driveways were not big enough so...I was looking at parking for the night at a rest stop on the CT turnpike and driving the car for visits.  Then, amazingly, it turned out that Darien allows overnight street parking and we happily pulled up to Sam and Joanna's house, parked and spent the afternoon, evening and breakfast the next day enjoying their hospitality.  We went for walks, had delicious meals and chatted about everything from our travels, Joanna's phenomenal photography and Joanna and my shared childhoods and desires to move home to St Croix.  The next day, Don and I drove over to Westport for lunch with my God-sister.  I have known Dottie since I was born since our parents were friends and we are both from St Croix.  Her father was my parents' best man and her parents, my Godparents.  In 1960, I was the flower girl in (Princess) Dottie and (her Price Charming) Dick's wedding.  We've remained in touch through the years and there are few people I love visiting as much as them.  Once again, a delicious lunch (and Dottie always does something from the islands and she and I get to yakking in Crucian) and a wonderful afternoon ending when we had to head back to Darien to pick up the MoHo and get on the road to New London.

We arrived at our campground with no problem and called Sara, my brother Chris's daughter, to let her know we were there.  The next day we met Sara, Chris and Donna in Old Mystic for lunch.  It was a cool and rainy day and the tavern we went to was warm and cozy. We had a great time.  Then later, we headed over to the USCGA (US Coast Guard Academy) for the sports awards ceremony. Sara was a diver on the Swimming and Diving team for her 4 years there and last year became the first woman Coast Guard Diver to qualify for the NCAA Championships.  Yes, we are proud of her. She is a delight and visited us with several of her equally great friends through her years in New London so it was especially touching to watch these women take their next step in life. 

By that night, 2 of Donna's sisters and their husbands, one of Sara's cousins and her son and Don and I were all there so we all went out for BBQ at the fantastic Chester's BBQ in Groton.  Then it was back to the campground for us and off to the hotels where Sara's brother, Christopher, a Marine 2nd lieutenant and Donna's dad and stepmom would be arriving.  Plans also had to be made for the following day because with President Obama as commencement speaker, security would be tight and no-one was parking on campus.  What did that mean?  Satellite parking areas and buses and lots and lots of people.  Our situation was also one of what would we do with Phoenix who would not be able to stay for 10 hours alone in the RV.  

After Lunch on Graduation Eve

Me with my special girl whose visits always brightened our weekends

Toasting Sara at Chester's

8:30 the next morning: We decided to park in the closest area, in the shade, with a big bowl of water and some snacks with a large waterproof pad on the floor with shades on all the windows which we left almost all the way open for Phoenix.  We took her for a walk and then settled her in the car where she promptly-as always- lay down and went to sleep. Then we hopped onto the bus and rode to the Academy. It was now 9am.  The ceremony was starting at 11.  We sailed through the security check.  Everyone knew it would be taking place so all had their requisite ID's and all other "stuff" had been left home. For their part the NSA and Academy security recognized that everyone was there for graduation and did not unduly harass anyone.  My brother Chris had found seats for us high in the stands where we would not be in the sun projected for the day and out of the wind that comes off the water.  We were also joined by my sister, Karen, en route to home in FL after a trip to Europe with friends.  The time passed quickly as we all awaited the arrival of the grads.  When the Cadets graduate they receive their diplomas as well as their orders and for the presentation of their orders they may choose someone to present them.  Sara chose her brother so he would enter later with the other presenters.  

The stage was set

We were kept entertained and informed

then the Cadets proceeded...

followed by the faculty

Sara found us and waved

At the entrance the new covers and epaulets were assembled for presentation after they had taken their oath of office

We all watched as the President's helicopter flew in and landed to the north of the field. Finally the procession started and the faculty and cadets were all seated when Hail to the Chief started to play and President Obama entered the field.  The speeches started and the address by the President was warmly received, even by some of his not so supportive citizens by whom I was surrounded.  He quipped at the beginning that he'd come to New London, not only because the president always goes to one of the service academy graduations each year but this year specifically because of his State of the Union speech earlier.  When he'd named West Point (Army-for those unfamiliar with our US names) Annapolis (Navy) Colorado Springs (Air Force) no-one reacted but when he said New London apparently the internet lit up with Google searches to "prove the President's error."  New London is, of course, the home of the Coast Guard Academy.  There was a poignant moment when the representatives of 4 foreign nations who had sent cadets to the USCGA were recognized and then 2 cadets, 1 from the Republic of Georgia, were remembered after being killed in a motor vehicle accident only months before.  Then the presentation of diplomas and orders began.

The Cadets take a moment to thank their parents

Sara receives her orders from Christopher

Ens. Cantrell, USCG and 2nd Lt. Cantrell, USMC with their Commander in Chief, President Obama

No longer Cadets they throw their covers into the air

When Sara applied for college she was accepted at both Annapolis (Naval Academy) and New London (Coast Guard.)  She chose New London for many reasons but one was that the school is so much smaller.  Her class at Annapolis would have been as large as the entire student body at New London.  So, there were only 218 graduates and that meant that each of them could take the time to receive their honors and stand for pictures and not be rushed off stage so that the rest of us gathered would not become impatient.  The day was beautiful, the crowds were happy, the Cadets who became Ensigns were delirious with excitement.  President Obama, whatever one thinks of him, was clearly enjoying watching these young men and women receive their diplomas and regardless of how some feel about the choices they have made for their careers each and every one of them worked incredibly hard to get through the past 4 years and will stay for a least 2 years serving their country.  It isn't that easy a choice at this time in our history and I, a long time anti-war, not too thrilled (to put it mildly) with our actions and policies in many places, am still bursting with pride for both Christopher and Sara.  It was a thrill to see them both onstage with their Commander in Chief and sharing a moment that for all of us was special but really meaningful for both of them.  For me it was also special because Sara was the first of my nieces and nephews to have really spent time with us.  I'd gone to the Flag Ceremony in Mystic during her first 6 weeks of "Swab Summer" which is basically a torture period designed to see if the swabs could become Cadets.  They stood for an hour and a half in 95 (35 C) degree heat without moving.  (I tried it...I scratched after a minute and "fell out of attention" after 2.)  They'd lost some classmates and the "kids" I had seen that day were no longer.  They were young (so young to many of our eyes) men and women, excited but fully prepared for the next phase.  Fair Winds and Following Seas to all of them.

The graduates and families gathered on the field for pictures and greetings after the ceremonies were over and the president was gone and then the craziness began.  The planning to get us there was great.  getting us back...not so much.  There was no rhyme or reason to the arrival of the buses, no designated areas for the 3 different parking areas, etc.  After waiting for 45 minutes Don finally gave up and walked back. He got to let Phoenix out of the car after a long 7 hours but she had waited for us to return before relieving herself.   I, along with both of Donna's sisters brought up the rear over and hour later and we all made it to lunch barely in time for Christopher, Karen and the grandparents to hastily eat lunch and then leave to catch their planes.  But, it was to honor Sara and we all were proud and lunch was great and life happened.

A father's pride

Mom and Dad pin her new shoulder boards

Brother and Sister

My very wonderful nephew

and equally wonderful niece

Sara receives her first salute as an Ensign

Sara with her two diving coaches

We bid adieu to Sara who'd be off on an adventure with friends to start her 30 day leave until reporting for duty in Norfolk, VA and her mom and dad who would be schlepping her stuff back to FL. And then we headed north to MA.